
"The best present I could ask for is just to be in America," a 24-year-old-U.S. army man tells me at Friends Bar. He holds his head in one hand, and a Corona beer in the other. After five months of training in the Midwest, he spent only 30 hours at home before flying to Seoul to join over 30,000 other U.S. military personnel here who, for the past five decades, have helped deter North Korean aggression.
This non-commissioned officer, with four others under his command, hasn't seen his family for eight months. But he did get their Christmas present, and loves his Play Station III.
Friends Bar does its best to make him, me, and countless other Americans feel at home. It’s one of many Americana establishments in Itaewon, a district of Seoul that butts up against the large U.S. Yongsan Garrison. In Friends, a huge American flag drapes one wall. Stacked-up Amstel Light boxes engulf another. And beer streamers crisscross the ceiling.
The clientèle here is almost entirely American, save for a few Korean women scattered about in the corners. The Americans sport Red Sox baseball caps, Bronx hoodies, and cowboy hats. They throw darts at boards, play pool, and bet on American football matches while a medley of heavy metal and Kanye West blares from the speakers above.
For one blonde twenty-year-old girl, it's not enough. Feeling homesick she says, "Let's go to the southern bar!"
We agree, and leave for a dim-lit bar that plays exclusively U.S. country classics. The walls boast life-size cardboard cutouts of crooning beauties. There's a confederate flag chopped in half hanging rather curiously behind country band album covers. Beer paraphernalia covers everything else.
I turn to my American companions and say half-jokingly, "You've got everything from America here.”
"No, man," comes the response, drunkenly serious. "You’ve got what we all want: freedom." A young soldier grasps my shoulder for emphasis, and support, chugging beer from a cowboy-hat-shaped mug and spluttering, “You can go home anytime you want. You can be in American anytime you want…We’re stuck here."
Throughout the night, I hear this refrain again and again. I am free. They are not. Part of it is a fact of military life. They have to trim their hair and report for duty. I don’t. But part of their complaint is larger. It’s about their responsibility to act as U.S. representatives here in South Korea -- a country with a complex relationship with America. They're never as free as I am.

Freedom for these soldiers is both the desire to grow their hair and to rid themselves, just for a while, of the responsibility of having to represent the U.S. around the clock. It's only one of many strains. Some will head to Iraq soon, others Afghanistan. There it will be different; it will be war.
It’s 3am here. I make my way back to my grey, windowless room for the night, pushing through a throng of South Koreans in muted winter clothing. The dozen or so revelers eye me curiously for a moment, and then return to laughing and smoking. I know I stick out, just enough to feel it. But this crowd won’t invite this lone American to join them, like it might have in the Philippines or Pakistan.
I’m not an object of curiosity here, like I was in these other places. Maybe five-decades of a large U.S. military presence makes Americans a bit less fascinating. Or maybe it’s the relative prosperity of the place. Whatever it is, being American here makes you stick out just enough to know it, but not much more.
Add to this the responsibility military personnel face, when missteps make national news. Even when we feel alone over the holidays, we can never lose ourselves as another anonymous member of the Korean crowds. We’re always a bit American here; and we’re always a bit lonely.


Comments (110)
(US) Soldiers are generally enlistees who come from lower social economic levels - poor and uneducated - segments of America. Korea or any other non-Western country is the only place that they can FEEL superior and and behave in an arrogant manner. You know they ain't gettin' away with that BS in the US, Germany, Sweden ...
January 8, 2008 11:31 AM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on January 8, 2008 11:31
I think people need to consider
if these are subjective or objective
because it was different from my view
January 5, 2008 4:54 AM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on January 5, 2008 04:54
I'm American and have lived in Korea for the last three Christmases. I am not a soldier, but it is not as if I have the "freedom" to go home whenever I want. I don't just have 2,000 dollars lying around and I only get three days off work for Christmas.
On Christmas Eve, I went to a KOREAN style bar and restaurant with my friends (half Koreans, half Westerners)and had a great time. The next day we woke up, got a train to City Hall and went ice skating and to see the lights set up around the city. There were so many people on the street that you could get trampled just walking around and enjoying the festivities. The last thing I would describe it as is "lonely".
All my friends and nearly everyone I talk to about it, never wants to drink in Itaewon for the sole purpose of avoiding being around soldiers. This may sound mean, and certainly doesn't apply to everyone, but the soldiers embarrass me as an American, and I try to dissociate myself with them. The air of ignorance is palpable around the bars in Itaewon. I'm really glad that they don't leave the base.
January 3, 2008 9:44 PM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on January 3, 2008 21:44
Got tired of reading most of the same thing so I thought I would add to the sameness. Stop complaining and get out there. I am in Korea and on New Years eve, yes at a bar in Iteawon. I made several new millitary friends who were making the best of things. Go out and see Korea. Open your eyes. Eat some food. See some sights. Try and Speak the language.
January 1, 2008 11:41 PM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on January 1, 2008 23:41
"Being a current company commander, with four tours in Korea under my belt, (plus one in Iraq), I can say that the way these "soldiers" in Korea represented themselves is very typical of the new generation of Soldiers who have enlisted since 2004. Since the Iraqi war turned bad, the Army has had difficulty recruiting, and began issuing moral and physical "waivers" to recruits. The immediate result of this is that the average IQ, physical fitness, and moral character of our recruits have hit the rock bottom. Media doesn't knwo, because we are covering it up so well, and the government is turning a blind eye... Our newest Soldiers are the fattest, stupidest, and the most criminal I have seen in my 15 years in service. Drug uses are rampant, and the Army no longer allows us to remove overweight soldiers who cannot pass their APFT (Army Physical Fitness Test) to retain its "end strength". And these same losers who got passed over by their village McDonald's in Kentucky are now complaining in Korea about "lack of freedom", while their counterparts are getting shot at in Iraq without any alcohol privileges.. I am so sick and tired of these low lives bringing us older soldiers bad name. We need to institute the draft, or up the pay chart, so we can enlist a better quality of young boys."
I am so glad to have you as one of our Commissioned Officers in the United States Army. You are a Shining Example of what a commissioned officer is not supposed to be. This is very unprofessional of you...to be slandering us "Junior Enlisted" of whom you have to rely on for your missions to get accomplished, your performance as a company and therefore your promotion ticket, and must rely on should you ever be stuck in a hard spot. I am a crew chief in a Avaition Unit and Damned glad to be, cause there are a lot of Officers, and Warrant Officers, of which are all better and more proffessional than it sounds you are. A majority of us are not what you portray, and the Majority of officers I have met and have had the pleasure working with are not as closed minded and stuck up as you are. And as your statement about instituting the draft, I assure you, that will not bring a better crop of Americans into the army than currently in. If the army is so bad then why dont you try to do something to improve it instead of slamming us all and showing the World on the World Wide Web how unprofessional our Commissioned Officers Can be. Take Care and look forwards to the day we meet if it should come.
PFC Stationed in Area III
December 31, 2007 2:53 AM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 31, 2007 02:53
boo hoo! Looks like you spoke with the wrong soldiers. You should have crossed the river up north and talked to the ones living within sight of the big North Korean flag. When I was stationed in Korea, we go to Seoul for R&R. Actually, that was the farthest south I've been and I never complained. We're happy enough not to be out in the field on Christmas. Those little kids should learn how to just suck it up! There are worst places in the world where they can end up spending Christmas. While they are in that bar drinking their beer there are thousands of other soldiers standing guard in the cold.
December 31, 2007 2:35 AM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 31, 2007 02:35
I am living in Jeonju, South Korea working as an English teacher. Although I have seen a hint of racism I also understand that in such a closed country, and being far from the giant tourist trap that Seoul is, I am more of a curiousity than a bother to the Koreans. I have been greatly welcomed by my co-workers, their friends, and family. It really is good to stay away from the bars and the other foriengers because you become tainted by their attitudes and feelings of loneliness and isolation, which is caused by their self-imposed exile to the bars. Also, yes, learning the language and wanting to submerge yourself in their culture opens more doors to being with Koreans than you can imagine. I'll always be American in my heart, and America is my first love. But, while I'm here I will practice what I have for so long preached when I saw some one foriegn in America. I thought, "If only they'd be more American and less caught up and isolated in their own culture then they would find it much easier in the country". Again you will never be wholly accepted, at least not for a long period, but as with everything, to get-you must first give.
James Bowden, native Texan-living in Korea.
December 30, 2007 7:36 PM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 30, 2007 19:36
I am living in Jeonju, South Korea working as an English teacher. Although I have seen a hint of racism I also understand that in such a closed country, and being far from the giant tourist trap that Seoul is, I am more of a curiousity than a bother to the Koreans. I have been greatly welcomed by my co-workers, their friends, and family. It really is good to stay away from the bars and the other foriengers because you become tainted by their attitudes and feelings of loneliness and isolation, which is caused by their self-imposed exile to the bars. Also, yes, learning the language and wanting to submerge yourself in their culture opens more doors to being with Koreans than you can imagine. I'll always be American in my heart, and America is my first love. But, while I'm here I will practice what I have for so long preached when I saw some one foriegn in America. I thought, "If only they'd be more American and less caught up and isolated in their own culture then they would find it much easier in the country". Again you will never be wholly accepted, at least not for a long period, but as with everything, to get-you must first give.
James Bowden, native Texan-living in Korea.
December 30, 2007 7:33 PM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 30, 2007 19:33
Many years ago, I was in the Korean army stationed in the DMZ. I saw one black US soldier stationed some distance away from me and he waved at me.
I wondered why he was there.
I wondered if it was his choice to be standing there.
Why is he defending a country that is not even his own?
Today, I still remember his face and the way he waved.
His sacrifice and many others like him has made my country what it is today. Land of democracy and market economy - a guiding light in the continental Asia where dictatorship and communism still thrives.
To the unknown soldier that I saw many years ago, I thank you.
December 29, 2007 11:02 PM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 29, 2007 23:02
And about inviting things, most of koreans(expecially young people 20's and 30's) can't invite their friends to their home if their not living with their family.
it's not because their friends are foreigner but it's just same to their best friends if their koreans or not.
I have many friends but I haven't invited their homes for 6 years(when I was teenager I could go to their home more freely) and I haven't invite my friends too.
But if your korean friend is male and living alone, it's possible to invite their friends to their home.
--I think it's cultural thing:)
December 29, 2007 9:00 PM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 29, 2007 21:00
I don't think Koreans hate Americans. But the most of Koreans having difficulty to say hi to foreigners even they are our neibohrs or teachers.
And many people feel scary to soldiers because they are much stronger than them, and some of drunken soldiers attacked citizens in the public place without any reason.
After they done that, there is no punishment from their country that people feel afraid when they meet american militaries.(if they have done same thing in European countries, I think it would be different..)
I don't think the most of soldiers would do the same things and I think most of Americans are very nice people and feel thank to helping Korea.
But because of shyness and fears to soldiers made both country's people misunderstood about each other.:)
December 29, 2007 8:43 PM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 29, 2007 20:43
I don't think Koreans hate Americans. But the most of Koreans having difficulty to say hi to foreigners even they are our neibohrs or teachers.
And many people feel scary to soldiers because they are much stronger than them, and some of drunken soldiers attacked citizens in the public place without any reason.
After they done that, there is no punishment from their country that people feel afraid when they meet american militaries.(if they have done same thing in European countries, I think it would be different..)
I don't think the most of soldiers would do the same things and I think most of Americans are very nice people and feel thank to helping Korea.
But because of shyness and fears to soldiers made both country's people misunderstood about each other.:)
I think I did many miskates when I wrting this, but thanks for reading plz don't misunderstand about koreans and me;)!
December 29, 2007 8:41 PM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 29, 2007 20:41
I've been living in South Korea for two years and I'm usually so inundated with invitations to do things with Koreans that I can't get any personal projects finished. As long as you don't act like an arrogant b-----d, Koreans are EXTREMELY hospitable and generous and just dying to get to know foreigners. The country is full of amazing things to see and do. Unfortunately, I see other Westerners where I live doing the same thing these military folks are doing--isolating themselves and wasting their time hanging out in bars. Can you be any more boring and less original than that?? Get out!! See the country!! Meet the people! Don't ever go to Itaewon. It's a foreigner slum and viewed very negatively by the locals, mainly because a lot of the people in Itaewon act like idiotic, dumb jocks.
December 29, 2007 8:41 PM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 29, 2007 20:41
personally, i find korea a wonderful country to live. i'm a linguist who's been living there for two years, and if you just make a small amount of effort to meet people and learn the language to a minimal degree, people will accept you warmly. i think most americans experience loneliness in korea because they don't make that sort of effort.
December 29, 2007 6:30 PM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 29, 2007 18:30
This is my 3rd winter here now and my 3rd Christmas. I found it easier to be here by getting involved in activities and in my church. One of my best friends is an old Korean cook who I used to live with in a remote area near the DMZ. I've seen a lot of soldiers come here and hate it because all they do is go out to the bars and drink themselves stupid instead of going out to places and making friends with Koreans. Koreans are some of the nicest people in the world, second to probably Filippinos.
December 29, 2007 1:51 PM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 29, 2007 13:51
The South Koreans are actually really nice people. I first came to Korea and hated it. Was away from my family and my horses, but I made friends with 2 Katusas (Korean Augmentees to the United States). They taught me the basics of their cultures and invited me to their families and introduced me to some of their friends. All of them have been the friendliest people that I have met, even in the states. At first I was counting the months and days untill I PCS. Now...I wish I tried to extend and stay here within the time frame. Ill remember this for the rest of my life!!
December 29, 2007 10:45 AM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 29, 2007 10:45
The South Koreans are actually really nice people. I first came to Korea and hated it. Was away from my family and my horses, but I made friends with 2 Katusas (Korean Augmentees to the United States). They taught me the basics of their cultures and invited me to their families and introduced me to some of their friends. All of them have been the friendlest people that I have met, even in the states. At first I was counting the months and days untill I PCS. Now...I wish I tried to extend and stay here within the time frame. Ill remember this for the rest of my life!!
December 29, 2007 10:42 AM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 29, 2007 10:42
These articles are extremely well written and thought inducing. Thank you for working so hard and getting stories from people all over the world. It was nice to meet you in Seoul as well. Take care.
December 29, 2007 10:15 AM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 29, 2007 10:15
im currently living in south korea, and i visit seoul reguarly and this lad needs to get his ass out and enjoy the experince of a fantastic city... its not like they dont have the opertunity, they have the same time off they do in the states and the base has everything they could need... maybe he should think about the other american, british and other UN soldiers who have to spend their xmas and new years in iraq and afganistan!
December 29, 2007 10:05 AM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 29, 2007 10:05
im currently living in south korea, and i visit seoul reguarly and this lad needs to get his ass out and enjoy the experince of a fantastic city... its not like they dont have the opertunity, they have the same time off they do in the states and the base has everything they could need... maybe he should think about the other american, british and other UN soldiers who have to spend their xmas and new years in iraq and afganistan!
December 29, 2007 10:04 AM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 29, 2007 10:04
im currently living in south korea, and i visit seoul reguarly and this lad needs to get his ass out and enjoy the experince of a fantastic city... its not like they dont have the opertunity, they have the same time off they do in the states and the base has everything they could need... maybe he should think about the other american, british and other UN soldiers who have to spend their xmas and new years in iraq and afganistan!
December 29, 2007 10:04 AM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 29, 2007 10:04
i 'm a korean and i do not mind americans living in my country..however..they need to (especially army ppl) learn to appreciate other culture and accept it...
i see them laughing at koreans because we do
a few things differently here and mock us..
and maybe learning the most simplest korean words will be great.
lot of korean ppl speak or at least understand english these days but i saw american ppl in itaewon getting mad because they couldn't communicate fluently in english in korea.
i wouldn't have any problems with americans or any other foreigners if they appreciate our culture, language and behave like they would do in their countries instead of hitting or rape us because they think they are better than us
December 29, 2007 9:57 AM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 29, 2007 09:57
That a dumbest thing I've ever read! Talking as if Korea was a far far away land.
Oh right! Sorry, it is a far far way land, because 70% of Americas can't find it on a map of the World!
In someway I feel sorry for you, but it isn't because you guys are in Korea.
-John "Japan"
December 29, 2007 6:31 AM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 29, 2007 06:31
"Being a current company commander, with four tours in Korea under my belt, (plus one in Iraq), I can say that the way these "soldiers" in Korea represented themselves is very typical of the new generation of Soldiers who have enlisted since 2004. Since the Iraqi war turned bad, the Army has had difficulty recruiting, and began issuing moral and physical "waivers" to recruits. The immediate result of this is that the average IQ, physical fitness, and moral character of our recruits have hit the rock bottom. Media doesn't knwo, because we are covering it up so well, and the government is turning a blind eye... Our newest Soldiers are the fattest, stupidest, and the most criminal I have seen in my 15 years in service. Drug uses are rampant, and the Army no longer allows us to remove overweight soldiers who cannot pass their APFT (Army Physical Fitness Test) to retain its "end strength". And these same losers who got passed over by their village McDonald's in Kentucky are now complaining in Korea about "lack of freedom", while their counterparts are getting shot at in Iraq without any alcohol privileges.. I am so sick and tired of these low lives bringing us older soldiers bad name. We need to institute the draft, or up the pay chart, so we can enlist a better quality of young boys."
I'm glad you have faith in your Soldiers...maybe what's giving you older Soldiers a bad name is leadership who trash talk their own on the internet.
Soldiers are supposed to look up to you...maybe your Soldiers know your opinon of them (it doesnt seem like you're very quiet about it)...How are they supposed to respect someone who says that about them?
Lead from the front, right?
December 29, 2007 12:00 AM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 29, 2007 00:00
Actually the SOFA has been amended. If I as an American soldier go off post and commit a crime, I can be handed over to So. Korean authorites for trial. There are already American service members serving time in So. Korean prisons, under So. Korean law.
December 28, 2007 11:35 PM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 28, 2007 23:35
u.s.a!
stop taking advantage in south korea as the tributary of u.s.
u.s must upgrade s.korea as its 51th state as soon as possible.
weep out the tears of s.koreans.
s.koreans want to obtain u.s citizenship not the stigma of the tributary.
December 28, 2007 10:55 PM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 28, 2007 22:55
I myself live under the protection of the ROK-US military alliance. Without doubt, I can say that the freedom that Koreans enjoy today not only came at the cost of Korean blood but that of many around the world, including that of Americans. There are many Koreans appreciating the sacrifice that the UN troops made during the Korean War. However, this does not make space for American soldiers in Korea to conduct themeselves in naughty behaviors, which they have. American military crimes have inflicted serious damamges to the Korean society and have infuriated the civil society here. The worse part is that American military criminals are often pardoned by the US military justice. As a result, I myself oppose to hosting American military bases in my country. Unless the Status of Forces Agreement(SOFA) is amended to levy grave sanctions on violent crimes committed by US military personnel, this alliance holds no promise but only conflicts.
This is most likely why there is a growing anti-American sentiment in South Korea. American servicemen and women are no longer respected as freedom's shield but criminals. This is not to generalize such accusations on every US soldiers. However, besides breaking the law, some American soldiers(particularly in NCM ranks) cope with the locals in contemptuous manners. You will be able to find them, for example, around clubs in Hongik Univ. area in Seoul, intimidating people, making racist remarks, harrassing local women and much more. The US military authority MUST GET A GRIP ON THEIR SOLDIERS. OTHERWISE I WANT THEM OUT OF MY LAND.
December 28, 2007 10:42 PM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 28, 2007 22:42
I wasn't going to post but, sitting here going through my photos of Korea all of which were taken against orders I am just getting more and more Furious. As orderd I cannot go off post without a battlebuddy (another soldier) coming with me. I wasn't thrilled to be posted here, but I decided to make the best of it and see as much of the country as I could. I got excited about my new posting. Cities, Palaces, Buddhist temples; all waiting for me to explore!
Upon arrival I was told I couldn't off post for a month. Whats doin on post? Bowling, video games, dvds, and of course drinking.
After that first month is over and I have been briefed to death on why I shouldn't drunkenly beat eldery Koreans, I started asking people to go off post with me. But all they wanted to do was go drinking and play video games.
Soyosan Mt.? "No." Pusan for the 4day weekend? "No." How about we go to Seoul for the day and explore? "No. I'm about to get to level 40 with my World of Warcraft character!"
Why can't I go off post by myself? Because the Army is afraid of what I will do when I inevitibly go off post and get wasted. Juding by the behavior I have witnessed of my fellow "soldiers" they shoud be.
So I everytime I go off post to see something I have to go against orders.
To be honest I wish I had been deployed to Afganistan, Iraq, the Horn of Africa so that I could do the job i was trained for instead of coming to thiiis!
December 28, 2007 10:23 PM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 28, 2007 22:23
I am an American teaching in Jeju Do, South Korea. These soldiers embarrass me. They are missing out on a tremendous opportunity to experience Korean culture and the wonderful people of South Korea. You should do another article on the expats who teach in South Korea. I think you'd find a far more interesting group of people and certainly better representatives of the United States.
A message to all US soldiers in South Korea: Go drink soju with some Korean. You'll find you have a lot in common that transcends nationality. The wall that you have erected between you and the people you are defending is one that you have created by not being willing to learn about the culture of the country you live in. Life in Korea is not all about Western bars. Look on the bright side. Your friends back home are stuck in their boring hometowns. You are getting a once in a lifetime opportunity to see the world.
December 28, 2007 10:15 PM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 28, 2007 22:15
Im a korean living right next to a u.s. military camp in chuncheon. but its pretty hard to see the guys there. i hope the guys could have more opportunity to get out and socialize with the koreans or something, once in a while. koreans like americans, you know, the only problems between them are these stereotypes about americans that korean people make up and the language they need to learn
December 28, 2007 9:13 PM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 28, 2007 21:13
It is an interesting report you have written that is rather one-sided. I can think of no place to go than Itaewon to discover negativity surrounding American military in Korea.
Itaewon is strange and opinion just isn't diverse enough. What you have is a love hate relationship with the American Military and Korea.
To the editors, I say this...how trying to dig a bit deeper? There are numerous Americans who have married and become resident in Korea and will give you a VERY different opinion.
Did you know that multiple Americans in Korea are entrepreneurial? Are also involved in the Arts? There is an area worth exploring. Not to mention Gyopo's - people of Korean blood who were born overseas. e.g. Daniel Henny - A local star, but not 100% Korean, more American in his upbringing I hear.
Itaewon and the military scene is a small piece of America in Korea. Anti-Americanism...if you sit next to any military base you will find a negative answer. Actually there is a lot of positive stuff going on...
Check out our site for the modern expatriate in the arts. www.expat-arts.com
December 28, 2007 8:45 PM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 28, 2007 20:45
I am an English teacher who lives in Seoul and don't feel sympathy for the army here. I was friends with several of them and they loved their lives. Yeah, Christmas might be a bit sad but they loved the fact that they go to another country to work basically regular desk jobs and have the weekends to drink and do whatever they want for the most part. You get all the comforts of home with the life on base that has everything you'd get at home, for a lot cheaper!
And whether or not you wanted to be in Seoul, you did want to be in the army so quit drowning your sorrows in a beer (which only causes greater feelings of depression) and get out there and do something original for a change and don't whine about how depressing your life is when it's not THAT much different from life in the States.
December 28, 2007 8:21 PM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 28, 2007 20:21
I spent a short tour at Kunsan AB ROK. No big city like Seoul nearby. No Itewan. A year or two is not the end of the world. Now days there is the Internet and huge Exhanges. Mail is fast, there's access to VOIP, and AFK Network provides American TV. Think about 20 or 30 years ago when none of that existed.
If these young people are going to spend their time in bars it's no wonder they are miserable. I found Korea to be a fascinating and beautiful country and Koreans to be decent, hard working people.
Let me remind these soldiers and airmen that they volunteered. Did they think they would stay at home forever? Get out and enjoy the country. See things, meet people. It goes by quickly and if you hang around drinking and feeling sorry for yourself that's all you'll ever find.
I also spent four years in the most beautiful part of Italy imaginable and heard the same whines from airmen there. For heaven'a sake! People pay a fortune to go to Italy! It's cheaper to tour Europe when you have a home base.
I can assure you I did not want to go to Korea and cried the entire 24 hour trip over. But as soon as I saw how beautiful the country was I was hooked. It's just a matter of attitude. When airmen inprocess someone always tells them that every assignment is what you make of it. I say, grow up. I'm so happy I got to see the world!
December 27, 2007 7:37 PM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 27, 2007 19:37
The author sure found a buzz saw on this one. For those of you who say "Bring them home" not so. Iraq excluded, when we send troops over seas we benefit because, to the larger extent those troops become better, more open people. The real sadness is that it has been appropriate to close so many overseas bases that provided wonderful opportunities for Americans to meet the world, and bring home a part of it. Troops at all of the Northern bases, (and really all of Korea) have access to some great skiing, but back when there was a base at Chitose, Japan, (on Hokkaido) THOSE troops had the wonders of Sapporro in their front yard.
On Taiwan there was once some great duty, and wonderful beaches for those lucky enough to draw that assignment. Baguio, in the Mountains north of Manila was legendary.
Seeing the world was once the real reason to give up a few years of your life to the Army or Air Force, because for one or more years you got to be a resident tourist, and only the limits of your imagination, curiosity, and stamina restricted you from enriching your life, and your character.
The great contribution the Cold War made to the nation was that it provided so many vets with their war stories about extraordinary places and exotic peoples who could be seen as commonplace and everyday life.
The Second Division thinks of itself as the speed bump on the road to Seoul for any Northern Invasion, but it functions about as much as a damper that keeps any hot head on either side from picking a brief and bloody war. For fifty three years the Indian Head division, the Tenth Corps, and the Eighth Army have kept the damper on extremism, and Korea is a more peaceful place for it, even if you discount the Korean peoples tendency to over dramatize just about everything. (My experience was to note that two Koreans nose to nose yelling might just be having, for them, a normal conversation.)
I have time all over the far East, and am a better human because of it.
With in reason, we should never bring the troops home to fester at Columbus, GA, Columbia, SC, Fayetteville, NC. Great bases and (maybe) good duty, all, but learning to talk a slow Georgian or slower Carolinian can't hold a candle to learning a language with 73 letters in its alphabet, or 40,000 ideographs.
Please, World, don't send us home. We'll behave!!
December 27, 2007 4:33 PM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 27, 2007 16:33
hmmm --- sounds to me like globe-trotting Amar was feeling the homesick blues himself on Christmas -- and was attracted to the other lost souls who fit his mood -- so maybe we should lighten up a bit on the guy -- and say Merry Christmas and thank you for giving up your holiday at home to give us all a little perspective on the wider world.
December 27, 2007 4:18 PM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 27, 2007 16:18
Mr. Bakshi: What's up with the link to the tragic Philippine prostitute story when clicking "save for a few Korean women scattered about in the corners?" Did you ask those women if they were professionals? If they befriend a GI will their fate end up being as brutal as the protagonist in your PI story?
As someone who actually lives in Seoul and knows the owner of Friend (sic; it's actually singular, not plural), I'll guarantee you those girls were either there with friends or curious about how foreigners live; i.e. not looking for a quick won.
December 27, 2007 11:56 AM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 27, 2007 11:56
I spent my first two Christmas holidays away from home in Germany in 1966. The next two were spent in Vietnam. All were very tough on a kid from the Midwest who valued his family time above all else. The next Christmas at home was interesting because my family wanted to know how the holiday was celebrated overseas...but I could not answer them. Getting drunk and crying in your rack all night is not what they wanted to hear. But that is what most of us did. Even today, hearing Silent Night still brings tears.
Being away from home is always toughest when the traditional holidays come around that focus exclusively on family time. What tears you apart is the realization that you are an armed occupier of another country and the message of Christmas...peace on earth, good will towards men...is stretched to the limit. For a commander to hope that suicides drop during the holiday season really speaks volumes on the stress that comes with a supposedly joyful time. When that occurs, pulling into yourself instead of reaching out, is just...normal.
The loss of my family during Christmas caused mourning, not joy, and trying to hide that feeling by subsitituting another family or USO show just didn't seem right. Best solution! Bring them home!
December 27, 2007 10:20 AM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 27, 2007 10:20
Of course there have been a few demos against American soldiers - have you been to San Fran or Berkeley any time lately? For the most, Koreans have proved some of the most welcoming, curious, kind people I've ever met.
The language barrier, yes, can be difficult and frustrating. But it's a two-way street: we're guests in their country, and should be doing our best to learn the local language and customs. The military is doing an excellent job to at least encourage its members to immerse themselves in the culture. I was surprised how many doors my brutal mangling of the language opened for me. It's the effort that counts, and it's appreciated.
What one sees far too often in bars and clubs is the "Ugly American" - far too often soldiers. Loud, obnoxious, rude, and drunk. From my own experiences here, I'd say Americans in general are thought of, at the worst, neutrally: let's see how they behave and go from there - no better than any other group of foreigners. But when a group of cocky, loud-mouthed, swaggering 20 year-olds comes crashing into a place, drunk on cheap beer and thinking they own the place, they're about as welcome as they would be at any party. It's not just the Koreans looking at them, it's all the rest of the foreigners scared they're going to be tarred by the same brush.
December 27, 2007 9:17 AM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 27, 2007 09:17
I see so many heartwarming comments posted here by AMERICAN CITIZENS. While reading the main article I did not expect much affirmative opinions coming from them. My preconception is wide of the mark!
The majority of the comments are like a Santa's Ho, Ho, Ho to me and I feel so relieved to know that vast majority of U.S. citizens were not negatively influenced by some unbalanced, agitative reports on Korean scene these days. A gentlemen, Korean War Vet, by the id of 'coolsmaj@comcast.net' warned of alcohol and bar culture, suggesting for better ways to use their time while stationed here. That touched me. He, I think, knows olny the war-ravaged Korea and then-meek-and-timid people seized with fear. But he is so objective.
Of course, there have been a few rallies against unfavorable incidents by some U.S. servicemen here, but how many took part in those protests? A few hundred activists? A few thousands out of 50 million population? Born and lived here all my life I know the sentiment of silent majority, who think Americans are always THE Friend, Semper Fidelis. I am 100% sure of it.
I hope U.S. servicemen would understand that young Koreans are eager to show their friendship toward them but for that darn language barrier.
December 27, 2007 3:56 AM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 27, 2007 03:56
As a local city officer who has been dealing with Amercan soldiers stationed in ROK, I have met a lot of young solders fresh out of the town they were born. The only problem these kids have is that their fraustration toward foreign culture, many of them try to isolate and activate
"invisible shield" when they encounter with local people.
The problem solves when these soldiers find out local people are just ordinarary people just as same as their neighbors in the State.
Well, actually, we are the neighbors who have been living next you for 50 years, but actually never had chance to say hello.
So my advice to the young soldiers stationed in ROK is that just have a litte gut to knock the doors and say hello, because we are ready to welcome you home and willing to share the fun time with you people.
December 27, 2007 2:17 AM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 27, 2007 02:17
Being a Korean American and living in both countries for my whole life, I understand how the troops feel living in a Korean country. First of all Itaewon is one of the most notorious and ghetto part of Seoul. As a korean, many will not visit this area just because it's ghetto and full of phonies. Like how everyone virtually stated above, get out of the slums of Itaewon. And most importantly why is a south asian writer writing about Korea and the troops? Get a life. Write better articles. Considering everyone posting a comment is rooting against the Bakshi, I think it is quite inevitable for Bakshi to know that his article is extremely vague, untrue and blatently sad. Learn more about certain aspects before writing an article. Honestly speaking I think the comment sections should not be censored, as long as the comments are appropriate and under control.
I was in fury after reading the article because this guy has no idea what he's talking about. Like everywhere in the world there are people who cannot adapt to their changing environment. Unfortunately Bakshi only talks of these people and does not talk about the many other soldiers that are probably having a great time in Korea during Christmas. Cabs and some local transportation run 24/7. Most if not all restaurants and bars (the real nice ones around Kangnam, not the ghetto ones in Itaewon) are all open till perhaps 5am. You can go to a real club for only 20 dollars US near Kangnam. You can go have christmas dinner with a few locals. What's the problem? The people that are interviewed in this article seem like they will have problems socializing in the States anyways. What's the big deal. Enjoy the opportunity, as I believe there are plenty of other Americans who wish to go the Eastern Asia (Japan, China, Korea) but don't have a chance because of the huge airfare. Use the opportunity and cherish it.
To to writer, Please look at all aspects and views of certain factors before writing an article.
December 27, 2007 1:34 AM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 27, 2007 01:34
Whoever wrote this piece should really learn to balance. It reads as if the context was already decided for the article even well before the first word was written. The interviews of the soldiers who are homesick and estranged should have been counter-balanced with the soldiers having different but rewarding cultural experiences in a foreign country.
No doubt unfamiliar places can make you feel alienated, but to make it as if it's the only experience one gets is dishonest, and far from being objective.
I live in Korea now, been 2 years, and I learned that the people here are very open to the idea of speaking with Americans in english (and, believe me, they do want to talk to you in english.) You don't really have to know Korean, but the fact that you try will make the Koreans you meet, almost anywhere outside the bar, break out in smile. Trust me, they like Americans and none of this anti-American baloney will matter to you if you, American or not, don't behave like a jerk.
December 27, 2007 12:59 AM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 27, 2007 00:59
The Itaewon district is about the worst place to go to to experience the real Korea. It is almost exclusively oriented towards American servicemen and women, and only the incorrigibly unadaptable stay there. Reporting solely from there is (not is like, but IS) going to a ghetto and saying the whole country is like the ghetto and all of the people in the country are like the ghetto dwellers. This article is a complete disservice to all of us -- ordinary Americans, ordinary Koreans, and the vast majority of Americans serving in Korea. Besides which, freedom in the south is about as complete as can be compared to the north, a Stalinist totalitarian state complete with psychopathic dictator, cult of personality, worldwide crystal meth distribution via the diplomatic service, and undeclared nuclear weapons program.
December 27, 2007 12:16 AM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 27, 2007 00:16
I spent all of 1997 in South Korea, and thought it was the coolest, most sublime year of my time in the Army. Getting along with the Koreans was easy: Smile, be polite, and learn some of the language. The Koreans who I had the pleasure to meet and hang out with were very appreciative of my attempts to speak their language, no matter how clumsy.
If you have a KATUSA in your platoon, that individual can become both a friend and a gateway to a fascinating East Asian culture.
Above all, get away from the bars and club districts where generations of drunken 18-year olds have made idiots of themselves in public. Instead, go and see those parts of Seoul and the countryside where you will be a welcome novelty.
December 27, 2007 12:13 AM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 27, 2007 00:13
I spent all of 1997 in South Korea, and thought it was the coolest, most sublime year of my time in the Army. Getting along with the Koreans was easy: Smile, be polite, and learn some of the language. The Koreans who I had the pleasure to meet and hang out with were very appreciative of my attempts to speak their language, no matter how clumsy.
If you have a KATUSA in your platoon, that individual can become both a friend and a gateway to a fascinating East Asian culture.
Above all, get away from the bars and club districts where generations of drunken 18-year olds have made idiots of themselves in public. Instead, go and see those parts of Seoul and the countryside where you will be a welcome novelty.
December 27, 2007 12:13 AM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 27, 2007 00:13
It seems to me that you and the people you interviewed are just depressed. There are many other fun things to do in Korea other than football, pool, cowboy hats, etc... don't close yourself in
December 26, 2007 11:47 PM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 26, 2007 23:47
"US soldiers should get out of the barracks and learn about Korea and Korean people."
That's what many of them do. It's not rare to see a member of the USFK win one of the Korean language speech contests held every year and many USFK personnel do volunteer work.
December 26, 2007 11:21 PM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 26, 2007 23:21
There are a number of incorrect and misleading statements in this piece. The number of troops stationed in Korea has declined significantly over the past 50 years in general and over the past five years in particular. The Yongsan base mentioned here is in fact slated for closure in coming years. So to the extent that North Korean "aggression," as Bakshi puts it, has been deterred, this is more likely to have been caused by these very reductions. The US has recently granted the South Korean government greater autonomous access to its advanced weapons systems (e.g., the Aegis system), which implies that Korean self-sufficiency is an important part of this equation too. The South Korean army is nearly the same size as the North Korean army, and it is far better trained and equipped. In my experience as a frequent visitor to Seoul, the only reason why Koreans tolerate--and indeed contribute huge sums of money for--the US presence is collective cultural gratitude for saving Seoul during the Korean War. Korean people are admirably loyal to those nations that have historically protected them (a trait, I might add, absent in Francophobic Americans who forget France's key role in our independence). This explains why they typically feel closer to China than to Japan.
Perhaps the best way to ensure Korean security and allow the whiny troops quoted in the piece to return home is to pull all US troops out of Korea. The fact that they will in all likelihood remain there indefinitely lends credence to the notion that the US is intent on maintaining its worldwide economic empire by force of arms.
December 26, 2007 11:11 PM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 26, 2007 23:11
Oh c'mon, as an Asian living in Asia, I wish you Americans could be a bit more open-minded a little more?
What's wrong with speaking with us, hanging out with us and eating out with us from time to time? Surely you wanna try some ramen noodles instead of just the burgers?
I mean, when I was in America for 2-3 months in 2004, I also ate American food and hanged out with Americans time to time, on a regular basis. A little of the same from you guys when you're here wouldn't hurt and as other veterans have said, it will help ease your loneliness.
December 26, 2007 11:05 PM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 26, 2007 23:05
The true saddness of this report is that there appears to be no ending for these deployments. Cuba since 1898 as an example. Also, Japan, German, Italy, Korea, Guam, Italy, etc. Now Diego Garcia, Iraq, Aghanistan, etc. Almost 700 US foreign installations overseas. The Hawaiians did not place a call to be taken over by the US. Warships did that. Take a young GI from the city or farm, give them a gun, place them overseas with money and liquour.That is not a good formula. Our presidents have occupied more countries since 1898 than any other nation. More American bombs, bullets, and BS have descended on foreign nationals than from any other nation since 1898. When is enough enough? Kill, kill, kill. All for US votes. Check your history. US presidents need to top sending soldiers to kill citizens of other nations.
December 26, 2007 10:22 PM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 26, 2007 22:22
I have never served in the army, but my parents worked for the UN so I have spent more than half my life in places outside the US. Its bad to expect everything to be exactly the same as it is in the US. You need to be willing to try new things, not make the country into a copy of the US. My advice, learn some of the local language, and go try to sing some popular local song karaoke style. Don't be so uptight, you have to be willing to look foolish sometimes. My personal choice is to go play video games, but to each generation their own ya?
December 26, 2007 10:11 PM | Report Offensive Comments
Posted on December 26, 2007 22:11
I have been stationed in Korea on multiple tours over the years and the young kids in the bar complaining about Korea is nothing new. It not because of new recruits as "company commander" claims because there has always been a cross section of young soldiers on their first tour of duty away from home that complain.
The author could have added some balance to the article by interviewing the hundreds of soldiers on Yongsan that volunteered to go help the Koreans clean the oil spill off the coast of Taean instead of hanging out in the Itaewon ville:
http://rokdrop.com/2007/12/20/usfk-soldiers-aid-with-oil-spill-clean-up/
Hundreds of more soldiers have volunteered at Korean orphanages, helped build homes for Habitat for Humanity, American fire fighters have helped Korean firefighters with local blazes, US helicopters have aided in the search for lost Korean fishermen, soldiers have rescued numerous Korean ac