Sally Quinn -
This Christmas as I set the table, I will lay a piece of holly at every place. After we finish the meal, everyone will go into the living room where I'll read a poem. Then we will each make a wish and throw the holly on the fire.
We have been celebrating this tradition for the last 16 years, ever since we first heard of it at the annual Madrigal Evening in St. Mary's City, Md., the "home of religious freedom" founded in 1634.
I love this ritual, which works perfectly for the many guests of different faiths we have around our table every Christmas. It makes everyone feel good -- uplifted and hopeful.
It wasn't always like this.
Of course, every family has holiday traditions. Some of them are sentimental, some funny, some sad, some embarrassing, and since we all have dysfunctional families on a certain level, some are just too pathetic to mention.
My own family had one of those. My great aunt Anna used to get drunk at Christmas dinner and fall into her plate. She started on the sauce the minute she walked in the door (this was the only day of the year she drank, and she couldn't hold her liquor). The first words out of her mouth were "bourbon on the rocks." It was downhill from there.
Aunt Anna was not a great conversationalist to begin with, but when she'd had a couple of shots and the words started to slur, the whole family would fall into their prescribed roles.
Nana, my father's widowed mother and Anna's sister, would get that pinched look on her face, contemptuous and superior over how her sister always managed to ruin Christmas dinner. My father would pour himself another drink. My mother would announce that she was opening a bottle of champagne and then stay in the kitchen, basting the turkey for as long as she could. My little brother, Bill, would take refuge under the tree with his latest toy.
That left my sister, Donna, and me to entertain Aunt Anna. We managed to get her going about the old days and her late husband, Buck. Both of them, my father and his mother were from the Eastern Shore town of Crisfield, Md., the "seafood capital of the world" and home of the annual Hard Crab Derby. Buck was about 250 pounds, wore a Panama hat in the summer and a felt hat in the winter, had to get his Big Guy clothes in Baltimore and loved a good cigar. In fact, Buck was never without a cigar.
That was it. She regaled us with tales of Buck and his cigars, which we had memorized by that point, until my mother announced that the dinner was served.
This was the hard part. It was one thing for Anna to slur her words, but by the time we sat down to eat, she was completely in the bag. It never took long before her face was in the cornbread dressing and the gravy. My grandmother would be hyperventilating, and my brother, sister and I would be desperately trying not to laugh. Daddy would help her from the table and prop her on the sofa in the living room, where she would promptly pass out, and we would continue our dinner as though nothing had happened. As you can imagine, this was not particularly edifying, as Christmas traditions went.
At some point, while we were living abroad, Aunt Anna died and that was the end of that tradition.
Even before Aunt Anna developed her tipsy habits, we had started another tradition within the immediate family. Shortly after my father came back from the Korean War, I was 11, my sister was 9 and my brother was 3. My parents decided that if Santa was going to bring us presents we needed to do something for Santa, so we decided to perform a little pageant.
I was an aspiring actress (I later majored in theater in college). So I wrote, produced, directed, did the set and costume design and starred in the production. The first year we tried the Nativity scene, but my little brother was a lousy baby Jesus and Donna was really unhappy that I got to be the Virgin Mary and she had to be Joseph. So the next year we did "The Little Match Girl." I, naturally, played the title role, the orphan who sold matches on Christmas Eve in the snow because she was starving. It was a bravura performance. My sister played the tree and my brother played a rock.
My parents always seemed to love it. They would laugh hysterically at my histrionics as they downed another scotch and another glass of champagne. Every year Donna and Bill would complain bitterly and demand speaking parts, but I would never relent. After I left for college, they mutinied, and when I came back that Christmas they refused to do the show. Thus ended yet another family tradition. This one was never particularly edifying either.
When my son Quinn was about 2, we started leaving cookies and milk for Santa, but that was about it.
Then we went to the Madrigal Evening and I fell in love with the ritual.
So, every year since then, once we have finished our Christmas dinner, I stand up and read the poem. Here it is:
A tradition of this holiday season
That has its roots in magic and reason,
Holly is the tree of heavenly spring
That can your Christmas wishes bring.
So take you now a sprig of holly,
A Christmas wish to make.
Toss it gently into the yule log fire
And all your cares forsake.
A wish for thee, and a good big kiss.
A wish for thou, a bright New Year
We wish you now.
Then we all take our sprigs of holly, make wishes and throw them in the fire. Here's the secret: You cannot wish for your own private plane. You must wish something good for somebody else. And here's the magic: When your wish is for someone else, it almost always comes true. And that's what this holiday season is about, isn't it?