Echoes of Bhutan
In the midst of the gripping political dramas dominating our news cycle, images of Bhutan (where I was earlier this month) color my processing of the news. Bhutan is about as far as you can get from contemporary American life - a small Himalayan kingdom where ferocious deities are part of daily life and serfdom is a living memory (it was abolished in 1956). Nevertheless, parallels there are.
The most blatant one is the way changing societies are grappling with the role of religion - in both countries, with difficulty. The bumbling public discourse in the U.S. about religion and politics stems from differing approaches to religion, when fervent belief confronts sharp diversity. We desperately want a strong moral compass in our leadership but the freedom to believe is absolutely fundamental. Not that long ago, religion was pretty simple - children went to their parents' church or synagogue and most identified with their inherited religious identity. That's a far cry from the smorgasborg of possible religious options today. The "religious tests" for our political leaders seem to involve an extraordinary balancing act of honesty and avoidance of anything that can offend.
Bhutan is Buddhist, with its Buddhist heritage tightly tied to Tibet but with its own distinct character that I could only dimly understand. Religion is everywhere in this society. Most visible are prayer flags. Wind horse flags--small squares of cloth with religious texts--are hung where the wind will carry their messages - on bridges, hills, beside roads. White flags carry the spirits of the dead. Temples are all over the place. They have statues of the Buddha but also a bewildering array of other deities and saints, good and evil. Demons are crushed underfoot. And butter lamps burn everywhere to carry messages. The deep red of monks' robes are omnipresent, some monks as young as seven or eight. And it was hard not to be fascinated by the "Divine Madman", Drupka Kunley, so beloved in Bhutan that his phallus decorates many houses, commemorating this fifteenth century saint's exuberant approach to life and sexuality.



