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Where are the Cedars?
It was lying on my back on the desert floor of Wadi Rum this summer when I got caught up in what is, for me, a surprising conversation. One of my Jordan-exploring compatriots mentioned the fact that, looking up at all the stars that night, he knew there was a God. I quietly imagined that the ancients probably felt much the same way, laying astride their camels in what would become T. E. Lawrence’s legendary stomping grounds, eyes glued to the heavens in wonder. The enormity and grace of a pristine night sky does give this humanist pause.
It was much the same driving through Lebanon two days ago. The country’s jewel, Beirut, the “city that would not die,” sits at the base of rolling, verdant hills. Beyond, the ancient beauty of Jeitta Grotto, the towering might of the Lebanese Cedars, and the glowing countryside in between, flush with vineyards and breathtaking views.
As one tour guide appraised me, “We are the only country in the world in which you can swim in the sea in the morning, get in your car, and in one hour’s time go skiing.”
This is powerful stuff.
And then one must consider the fact that in the last 30 years this country has seen fifteen years of civil war and an almost equal amount of internal turmoil. Seeing Hassan Nasrallah’s face on every third billboard outside of Beirut is enough of a reminder of the bitter inter-sectarian violence that has been as much apart of Lebanon’s soul in the recent past as its dramatic natural gifts.
The yin and the yang sit a little too close together on this one.
I don’t get really depressed about things too often here in the Middle East. There’s more than enough heartbreak to go around. But I couldn’t help feeling more than a few pangs when holding that grand Wadi Rum sky and the sheer wonder of my companion up against the bombed-out mess of the Lebanese religious scene.
It is perhaps fitting, then, that the trees bearing a holy name, “Arz ar-Rab,” or Cedars of the Lord, have fallen from a great stock to a scant few. Here is religion laid low. Very, very low.
By
David Grant
|
October 16, 2007; 4:30 PM ET
| Category:
Southern Skeptic
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Posted by: Asim | October 19, 2007 5:49 AM
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David,
Am surprized U did not say any thing about Petra-one the seven wonders of the world-just near the Moon Valley-Wadi Rum.
You are way off the mark to relate the name of Hassan Nasrallah to inter-secterian tension in Lebanon:Hezballah is totally and only dedicated to protect Lebanon from israeli aggression-remember israel occupied Lebanon from 1982-2000 when it was evicted by Hezballah. Like HAmas, it was established as a direct reaction to lengthy israeli occupation.
Unlike other parochial militias and groups,Hezballh never ever turned its weapons against the Lebenese people.Hezballah gets weapons and support from Iran and Syria as does israel get unlimited support from the US-and Hassen Naserallh is the most popular leader in the Arab world-you must have noticed that while you wrere in Egypt:thou a Shia leader,his portraits were waved inside the AL Azhar in full day light.